Top Ingredients to Avoid in Soap and Shampoos

Top Ingredients to Avoid in: Soap

BHT - Type of Concerns: Neurotoxicity, Endocrine disruption, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs).

DMDM HYDANTOIN - Violations, restrictions & warnings, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs), Contamination concerns: Formaldehyde.

FRAGRANCE - Type of Concerns: Neurotoxicity, Allergies/immunotoxicity.

METHYLCHLOROISOTHIAZOLINONE - Type of Concerns: Violations, restrictions & warnings, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive).

TRICLOSAN - Type of Concerns: Violations, restrictions & warnings, Endocrine disruption, Persistence and bioaccumulation, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs).

TRIETHANOLAMINE - Type of Concerns: Cancer, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive).

PABA (PARA-AMINOBENZOIC ACID) - Violations, restrictions & warnings, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Multiple, additive exposure sources, Biochemical or cellular level changes.

Top Ingredients to Avoid in: Shampoo

BHA - Type of concerns: Violations, restrictions & warnings, Endocrine disruption, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Persistence and bioaccumulation, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive).

COAL TAR - (not to be confused with Pine Tar. Pine Tar comes from Pine Trees. Coal Tar comes from the Coal Industry). Type of concerns: Cancer, Violations, restrictions & warnings, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive).

DMDM HYDANTOIN - Type of Concerns: Violations, restrictions & warnings, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs).

FRAGRANCE - Type of Concerns: Neurotoxicity, Allergies/immunotoxicity

OXYBENZONE (BENZOPHENONE-3) - Type of concerns: Developmental/reproductive toxicity, Violations, restrictions & warnings, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Persistence and bioaccumulation, Enhanced skin absorption, Biochemical or cellular level changes.

PARABEN - Type of Concerns: Developmental/reproductive toxicity, Endocrine disruption, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Miscellaneous, Multiple, additive exposure sources.

SODIUM METHYLPARABEN - Type of concerns: Violations, restrictions & warnings, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Biochemical or cellular level changes

SALICYLIC ACID - Types of concerns: Violations, restrictions & warnings, Neurotoxicity, Persistence and bioaccumulation, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Multiple, additive exposure sources, Enhanced skin absorption.

TRIETHANOLAMINE - Type of Concerns: Cancer, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive).

Top Ingredients to Avoid in: Shaving Cream

BENZOCAINE - Type of Concerns: Violations, restrictions & warnings, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive).

BHA - Type of Concerns: Violations, restrictions & warnings, Endocrine disruption, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Persistence and bioaccumulation, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive).

BHT - Type of Concerns: Neurotoxicity, Endocrine disruption, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs).

DMDM HYDANTOIN – Type of Concerns: Violations, restrictions & warnings, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs), Contamination concerns: Formaldehyde.

FRAGRANCE - Type of Concerns: Neurotoxicity, Allergies/immunotoxicity.

SALICYLIC ACID - Types of concerns: Violations, restrictions & warnings, Neurotoxicity, Persistence and bioaccumulation, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Multiple, additive exposure sources, Enhanced skin absorption.

SILICA - Type of Concerns: Cancer, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Persistence and bioaccumulation, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Biochemical or cellular level changes.

TRIETHANOLAMINE - Type of Concerns: Cancer, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive).

The Bottom Line on Soap and Cleansers

The Bottom Line on Soap and Cleansers

Soap is the simplest type of surface-active agent - surfactant - and works by making fat and oil water-soluble and easily removed by wiping or washing. Made from fatty acid salts, soaps clean by reducing the surface tension of your skin with anionic agents such as carboxylate, sulfonate and sulfate ions which are potenial irritants.

At one time, it was thought soaps caused irritation by removing only fat from the outermost layer of the skin, but research indicates that soaps damage affects both the fat and protein structures of this top layer. This can cause unpleasant skin reactions and lead to a rougher skin texture. More bad news: the soap salts that emulsify dirt and oil are by nature alkaline and will raise the skin’s acidic pH as well as provoke swelling of the skin surface. Some studies have shown long-term use of a neutral or alkaline surfactant, such as soap, can increase the amount of bacteria on the skin, while swelling can lead to cellular damage or even breakage. Soap salts can also remove natural moisturizing factors and disrupt the skin’s protective barrier. The fatty acids in soap can have harmful effects too, by plugging follicles (pores) and causing acne.

Soaps may also contain fragrance (often to mask the strong odors of surfactants) and sometimes dyes or pigments. These ingredients can be irritating for people with sensitive skin.

Superfatted Soap/Beauty Bars

* Reduce dryness with lanolin, tallow fat, coconut oil, sweet almond oil or glycerin
* Can plug hair follicles
* Disturb the skin’s natural pH
* Can cause dryness and irritation due to anionic surfactants
* May leave a residue on skin

Dermatological Bars/Cakes

* Chemically different from soaps
* May contain additives to minimize the effect on skin’s pH
* May include emollients to reduce dryness
* May contain anti-acne ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide

Liquid Cleansers

* Generally mild and less irritating
* Often contains glycerin, cetyl alcohol or propylene glycol
* Not considered soap, as they have no fatty acids or alkalis
* Have a pH similar to normal skin
* Rinse off well, decreasing potential for skin reactions
* May contain anionic, non-ionic or silicone surfactants
* May leave a fine moisturizing film on the skin
* Effective in removing cosmetics
Anti-Bacterial/Septic Washes

* Similar to liquid cleansers
* Used to treat acne
* May contain alcohol, antiseptic or antibacterial agents such as benzoyl peroxide
* May reduce the presence of bacteria on the skin
* Active ingredients can dry and irritate

Emulsions

* Milky liquid cleansers, cold creams and cleansing creams
* May contain a mixture of mineral oil, petroleum, water, and some waxes
* Often gentle on skin
* May plug follicles
* Do not usually affect the skin’s pH
* Wash and moisturize the skin

Skin Cleansers and Soaps

Soaps, as we know them, were first used about 600 BC by the Phoenicians who combined goat fat, water, and potassium carbonate ash to form a solid soap. More recently, in 1878, Harley Procter developed a soap in collaboration with his cousin, James Gamble. They produced a soap by whipping air into a soap solution, this resulted in Ivory Soap, which is still used today.

Cleansing of the skin helps the skin to maintain a healthy, attractive looking, surface. It removes dust, perspiration, and some of the breakdown products of sebum. Makeup can also be removed.

Foreign substances such as dirt will mix with the oil of the skin and become embedded. Water is inadequate to remove this. Soaps will be used to decrease the oil on the surface of the skin removing the dirt at the same time.

Soaps are essentially made of salts of fatty acids. The most commonly used fats come from animal and vegetable sources and include stearic acid, palmitic, oleic, as well as lauric. Soap particles will coat the fat droplets in which dirt is embedded and then will allow these to be removed by water.

Types Of Cleansers:

1. Bar soaps
2. Lipid free cleansers
3. Cleansing creams
4. Astringents and toners
5. Abrasive scrubs
6. Facial masks

Soaps can be irritating to the skin, the removal of the protective fat layer can lead to drying. A high pH of skin can also be irritating. Soaps can also combine with the calcium and magnesium found on the surface of the skin to form fatty acid salts which of themselves become irritating. The skin’s acidity may be affected. The acidity of the skin is important to inhibit bacterial and fungal infections.

1) Bar soaps:
Bar soaps are essentially salts of fatty acids, they are the most commonly used cleansers. They can be irritating, particularly to sensitive skin. A number of components can be added to soaps including the following:

* Moisturizers
* Fragrances & perfumes
* Preservatives
* Colouring agents
* Anti-bacterial compounds

Moisturizers:
Moisturizers will counteract the drying effect of soaps. The loss of the protective oil layer increases the chances of irritation. This can be counteracted by the use of moisturizing products such as glycerin, vegetable fats, or lanolin. The amount of moisturizer that is incorporated into soap is very small. Individuals who have a tendency to have dry skin should apply specific moisturizers after washing with soap rather than relying on the moisturizing component of soaps. Transparent soaps will have a high glycerin content and this tends to absorb water out of the skin, potentially causing more irritation.

Fragrances:
Fragrances are commonly used to conceal the odours of the raw ingredients of soaps. Some individuals will be sensitive and become allergic to these products. Anti-bacterial soaps will contain triclosan or triclocarban. A small residue will remain on the skin, which may inhibit bacteria. These can be useful in inhibiting unpleasant odours such as those found in areas where there are a significant number of apocrine sweat glands. These are found in the armpits and groin.

Mild soaps:
Mild soaps are designed to minimize irritations. They will not have colouring agents or perfumes. These do not tend to cause stinging of the skin or the eyes. Irritation or allergic reactions, while less likely to occur, may still be a problem for small children or for those who have very sensitive skin.

2) Lipid-free cleansers:

These are liquid cleansers that do not contain any fat. They will be applied to the skin and then wiped away or rinsed off with water. Many of these will contain glycerin, cetyl alcohol, sodium or sulphate, and sometimes propylene glycol. They will leave a very fine moisturizing film on the skin. These are particularly effective in removing cosmetics and are useful for individuals who have a tendency towards eczema. These may also be more helpful in older, drier skin.

3) Cleansing creams:

These creams can be used to both wash the skin and to moisturize it, they contain a mixture of mineral oil, petroleum, water, and some waxes. These are known also as cold creams, they are applied to the skin and washed off. They are useful for removing makeup and are usually made of heavy oils. These creams are helpful in removing sebum from the skin. They are gentler than other cleansers, and are recommended for dry skin, but are not that useful for those with oily skin or individuals with acne. Cleansing creams are best not used as moisturizers, as they are likely to cause irritation if left on for some time.

4) Astringents and toners:

These are perfumed or fragranced alcohol-based solutions designed to remove oil from the skin and will produce a tight feeling to the skin. Many multi-stat cleansing regimens will incorporate astringents that are used after a regular bar soap is used, they certainly have some benefit in removing alkaline soaps that tend to stick to the skin. Astringents are available for oily, normal, and dry skin. The high concentration of alcohol certainly removes sebum especially in those with oily skin for example, individuals with acne. They are the products used to control T zone oiliness.

5) Abrasive scrubbers:

These substances cause the rubbing off or exfoliation of the surface of the skin, they are available either as an abrasive sponge, or an abrasive scrub which has small granules within a cream base. These are used to remove skin scales, they work through mechanical means rather than through chemical action. They should be used infrequently, and cannot be tolerated on a daily basis, if used excessively they can cause damage of the stratum corneum, which is the surface of the epidermis producing redness and scaling.

6) Facial masks:

Facial masks are applied to the skin in a thick layer and are left on for 15-30 minutes, they are otherwise known as facials. It is said that these will produce skin tightening as well as deep cleaning of the hair follicles and pores. They may be used as a preventative treatment for acne. These products cleanse and moisturize the skin as well, they have a cleansing action through superficial peeling of the skin. They will leave the skin feeling moisturized, there is a general feeling of well being for some time after this is done, although it is not possible to fundamentally change the skin longterm with these products.

Some masks are applied and rinsed off with water, these are absorbent masks that are made of insoluble powders, clay, and mud, or gel masks that contain substances such as tragacanth (a natural gum obtained from the dried sap of several species of Middle Eastern legumes) . A mask that is peeled off will be vinyl or rubber based, and will harden, and form into a transparent sheet that will have to be removed. Facial masks that are used for acne will absorb oil from the skin, and some of them can be integrated with sulpha and benzoyl peroxide.

Excessive cleansing with a mask can certainly cause irritation and occasionally there may be a secondary infection. Once these masks are removed, moisturizer should be applied to the skin to minimize the superficial peeling that follows.

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