The Bottom Line on Soap and Cleansers

The Bottom Line on Soap and Cleansers

Soap is the simplest type of surface-active agent - surfactant - and works by making fat and oil water-soluble and easily removed by wiping or washing. Made from fatty acid salts, soaps clean by reducing the surface tension of your skin with anionic agents such as carboxylate, sulfonate and sulfate ions which are potenial irritants.

At one time, it was thought soaps caused irritation by removing only fat from the outermost layer of the skin, but research indicates that soaps damage affects both the fat and protein structures of this top layer. This can cause unpleasant skin reactions and lead to a rougher skin texture. More bad news: the soap salts that emulsify dirt and oil are by nature alkaline and will raise the skin’s acidic pH as well as provoke swelling of the skin surface. Some studies have shown long-term use of a neutral or alkaline surfactant, such as soap, can increase the amount of bacteria on the skin, while swelling can lead to cellular damage or even breakage. Soap salts can also remove natural moisturizing factors and disrupt the skin’s protective barrier. The fatty acids in soap can have harmful effects too, by plugging follicles (pores) and causing acne.

Soaps may also contain fragrance (often to mask the strong odors of surfactants) and sometimes dyes or pigments. These ingredients can be irritating for people with sensitive skin.

Superfatted Soap/Beauty Bars

* Reduce dryness with lanolin, tallow fat, coconut oil, sweet almond oil or glycerin
* Can plug hair follicles
* Disturb the skin’s natural pH
* Can cause dryness and irritation due to anionic surfactants
* May leave a residue on skin

Dermatological Bars/Cakes

* Chemically different from soaps
* May contain additives to minimize the effect on skin’s pH
* May include emollients to reduce dryness
* May contain anti-acne ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide

Liquid Cleansers

* Generally mild and less irritating
* Often contains glycerin, cetyl alcohol or propylene glycol
* Not considered soap, as they have no fatty acids or alkalis
* Have a pH similar to normal skin
* Rinse off well, decreasing potential for skin reactions
* May contain anionic, non-ionic or silicone surfactants
* May leave a fine moisturizing film on the skin
* Effective in removing cosmetics
Anti-Bacterial/Septic Washes

* Similar to liquid cleansers
* Used to treat acne
* May contain alcohol, antiseptic or antibacterial agents such as benzoyl peroxide
* May reduce the presence of bacteria on the skin
* Active ingredients can dry and irritate

Emulsions

* Milky liquid cleansers, cold creams and cleansing creams
* May contain a mixture of mineral oil, petroleum, water, and some waxes
* Often gentle on skin
* May plug follicles
* Do not usually affect the skin’s pH
* Wash and moisturize the skin